The Top 5 Things You Need To KNOW About Your Roof

How To Know If There's A Hole...

If you have a hole in your roof right now, how would you know? What if the water was soaking into your insulation and you couldn't see it yet? Could it be that it is rotting out the wood in your attic?

Take a look. Do you think this roof has damage?

There's only 1 way to find out. Get a complete roof inspection!

1. Knowing & Showing

Have your contractor do a detailed inspection including a video or at least pictures of what they find. This should include shingles, pipe boots, ventilation, gutters and drip edge.

Why do I need a thorough roof inspection? Just like the human body, your roof is a complete system. Missing drip edge means water can rot your fascia board, and rats can get into your attic. Yuck! The National Roofing Contractors Association recommends you get your roof inspected 2X a year. Even little things like leaves cause your roof to retain moisture causing algae growth and premature rotting.

Here’s the Roof pictured above. We had to get CLOSE to see the severe damage to the ridge.

2. Shingle What?

Find out what kind of shingles you have and what the expected life span is. Most people have a builders grade 3 tab whose life span is 15-25 years. Many have architectural or laminated shingles which are rated 30-50 years. Some homeowners however have Atlas Chalet, which can be defective, cracking, and losing granules 25 years before it should! Each shingle requires a different approach to maintenance or replacement.

A) 3 Tab Shingles are extremely susceptible to wind and hail damage. Most roofs older than 10-15 years will be eligible for insurance to help pay for a roof replacement. The shingles are also very vulnerable to algae growth and therfore black staining. You can’t power wash it off unless you are using a gentle spray of part bleach and water.

B) Architectural Shingles are considered lifetime shingles. They are nearly twice as thick as 3 tabs and much longer lasting. They tend to last 30-50 years. In order to damage architectural shingles you typically need winds in excess of 100 MPH, or at least quarter size hail. Most issues with these shingles will be a result of birds pecking at the ridge caps, people walking on the roof, or poor installation. The image above shows where the shingles were high nailed and as a result have slid down the roof creating a huge potential for leaks.

C) ATLAS CHALET Shingles are a horse of a different color. They are considered defective due to cracking, blistering, and being extremely susceptible to wind damage. They also lose granules at an accelerated rate; literally the life of the shingles sheds off nearly 10X faster than designed. Because the Atlas chalet shingle is a faux architectural shingle it uses glued on granules to simulate a laminate/3D look at a reduced cost. Bottom line it pretends to be architectural but is not. Insurance will often pay to replace the entire roof as a result!

3 Tab With Wind & Hail Damage, Architectural Shingles with Hail Damage, & Cracking on Atlas Chalet Shingles.

3. These Boots Are Made For Venting

Pipe Boots are the single most vulnerable area of your roof. Because they are a direct protrusion they require a collar to prevent water from getting into the home. The collar is typically made of neoprene and wears down over 5-8 years. If the collar begins to crack it will leak. Using a perma boot is a far better solution. It comes with a lifetime warranty, and is made of an extremely durable plastic polymer.

4. Attic Check!

The life span of your roof is determined largely by the amount of insulation and ventilation you have. For example Ridge Vents provide the most effective edge to edge ventilation on a ridge roof & an insulated attic hatch prevents the 40% of heating and cooling normally lost! The better insulated your attic is, the less work it takes your heat pump and air conditioning to keep the temperature comfy in your home. The better ventilation on a roof the longer the shingles will last because it keeps the roof cooler.

5. Tar Paper VS. Synthetic Felt

Contrary to popular belief water does get under your shingles. More often than not the tar paper is there to try and stop it. The problem? Tar paper is water absorbent. A much better option is synthetic felt; a tarp-like material that grips better than tar paper, and it 100% water proof! Tar paper is black and ripples easily while Synthetic felt lays flatter, often creating a much smoother, better looking roof.

Resources

• Energy.gov
• Robert From Ridge Valley Roofing in Newnan, GA

What a roof inspection covers

A full roof inspection has an outside half and an inside half. Outside, the inspector looks at the shingles for granule loss, cracks, curling, lifted tabs and popped nails; at the flashing around chimneys, walls, skylights and valleys; at every pipe boot and vent; and at the gutters, drip edge, fascia and soffit, where water damage often shows first.

Inside, the attic tells the rest of the story. Daylight where there should be none, water stains on the rafters or the underside of the roof deck, damp or matted insulation, frost on the nail tips in winter and a stale, hot smell all point to leaks or poor ventilation. An inspection that skips the attic is only half done.

Ask for photos of everything the inspector calls a problem, with a note on where on the roof each one is. That record lets you compare what one roofer says with what another says, and it is what an insurance adjuster will want to see after a storm. A free inspection that comes with a sales pitch can still be useful, as long as the photos are yours to keep.

Questions to ask a roofer before you sign

Start with the business. Is the company licensed where your state or city requires it, and insured for both liability and its workers? Ask for the certificates and check that they are current. Ask who will actually be on your roof, the company's own crew or a subcontractor, and who will be in charge on site.

Then the roof itself. Will the old shingles be torn off or covered over? What underlayment goes down, and where will ice and water barrier be used? Will the flashing, drip edge and pipe boots be replaced or reused? How will the attic be ventilated? What is the price per sheet if rotten decking turns up once the old roof is off?

Then the paperwork. Who pulls the permit? What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, what does the roofer's own workmanship warranty cover, and how long does each one last? How much is due up front and when is the rest due? How will the yard and driveway be swept for nails? Get every answer written into the contract, not just said in the driveway.

How to compare roofing quotes

Roofing quotes are hard to compare when each one describes a different job. Line them up side by side and check that each covers the same number of squares, the same shingle line, the same tear-off, and the same underlayment, flashing, drip edge and ventilation. A quote that leaves something out is not cheaper; it is a smaller job.

Watch the allowances. Decking is usually priced per sheet because nobody knows how much is rotten until the old roof comes off, so compare that unit price, not just the total. Check whether disposal, permits and cleanup are included, and how long each price holds.

Be wary of pressure. A crew that knocks on doors after a storm, offers to cover your insurance deductible, asks you to sign over your insurance claim on the spot, or wants most of the money before any material arrives is showing the usual signs of a roofing scam. A local roofer with a real address, references you can call and a written contract will give you time to decide.

Roof financing: what to compare before you borrow

Most people pay for a new roof from savings, from an insurance claim when storm damage is covered, or with a loan. Loans come from a few places: financing a roofer arranges through a lender, a home equity loan or line of credit, a personal loan, or a credit card. Each has its own rate, fees and term, and they are not equally suited to a large, one-time cost.

Compare them by the total you will repay, not the monthly payment. A lower payment stretched over a longer term can cost much more in the end. Read promotional offers closely. Some defer interest, which means that if the balance is not paid in full by the end of the promotion, interest going back to the very first day is added on.

Ask whether there is a penalty for paying early, whether the loan puts a lien on the house, and who the actual lender is when a roofer offers financing. Ask too whether the roof price changes if you finance. Some contractor financing carries a fee the lender charges the roofer, and that fee can end up built into your price.

Questions people ask

How often should a roof be inspected?

A look in spring and fall, plus one after any major hail or wind storm, catches most problems while they are small. Older roofs and roofs under trees deserve the closest attention. You can do a first check yourself from the ground with binoculars.

How do I choose a roofer?

Look for a local roofer with a physical address, the license your state or city requires, current liability and workers' insurance, and references from recent jobs near you. Then compare detailed written quotes for the same scope of work before you sign anything.

Can you finance a new roof?

Yes. Common options are financing a roofer arranges through a lender, a home equity loan or line of credit, and personal loans. Compare the total repaid, the fees, and whether a promotional rate defers interest, and get the lender's terms in writing.

How do I spot a roofing scam?

Warning signs include door-to-door crews after a storm, pressure to sign the same day, offers to cover your insurance deductible, requests for most of the money up front, and no local address. Check the license and insurance, call references, and read anything about your insurance claim before signing it.

This guide was updated in October 2026 with new sections and the questions people ask most.